Mera & Island peaks
Mera Peak stands at 6,476 meters (21,246 feet) above sea level and Island Peak at 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). Both peaks are highly sought after peaks offering you a unique chance to climb two peaks on one expedition. Geographically, the two mountains are fairly close, however they are separated by the mountain chain dividing the Hongu and Khumbu Valleys. This trip offers our clients a chance to visit one of the most beautiful and remote valleys in Nepal as well as the opportunity to cross the challenging and beautiful Amphu Labtsa Pass at 5,780 meters (18,963ft).
Mera Peak (6,476m/21,246ft) Although Mera Peak is slightly higher than Island peak, it is a technically straightforward climb and is known as the highest “trekking peak” in Nepal. Mera is climbable by people without mountaineering experience. The climb to the summit is a very strenuous, but steady, glacier climb with rewarding views of the Himalayas from the top. The fantastic vista from the summit includes views of Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu. From the summit, we will descend into the beautiful Hongu Valley where we will then cross the Amphu Labtsa pass and into the Imja Valley where the views of Island Peakare stunning.
Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft) Island Peak is a more technical climb, involving a grade one scramble up a rock gully and rock ridge, to a stunning glacier. After a steady climb up the glacier, you encounter the steep snow headwall which leads you to the summit ridge and on to the summit. From the summit you will be rewarded with a fantastic view of the Himalayas with Makalu, Ama Dablam and Lhotse being some of the highlights. After the tough accent of Island Peak we will descend to the main Everest trail where the much welcomed teahouses will be a stark contrast from our time in the remote wilderness!
Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu airport, transfer to International Guest House.
Day 2 Drive to Bundar. We will use 4 wheel drive vehicles. Overnight in Bundar, this is a beautiful Sherpa village with small market area.
Day 3 Bundar to Kenja. We walk along the riverside, enjoying views of Pike Peak and Numbur Himal.
Day 4 Kenja to Gayun. This is a steep walk through terraced farmland, and small groups of tea houses.
Day 5 Gayun to Jumbesi over the Lamjura Pass. We walk through alpine forest, downhill to Jumbesi, where there one of the Edmund Hilary schools has been established. There is also a monastery here that is worth a visit.
Day 6 Jumbesi to Nuntalla. This is a day of steep ascents and descents, through forest and farmland.
Day 7 Nuntalla to Khare Khola. Again we are walking through farmland, we cross the river and have a fairly long climb through the terraces, before reaching the small village of Khare Khola, and its’ market place.
Day 8 Khare Khola to Langapomdok or Pangkoma. There is a monastery, oak, bamboo and alpine forest. You can see the see mountain of Chatra La Phu.
Day 9 Langapomdok or Pangkoma to Nashing Dingma. We walk again through forest; we may spot deer, bear and other animals and birds, before arriving at the small Sherpa Village.
Day 10 Nashing Dingma to Chalem Kharka. We walk through forest, we may see Langur Monkey, deer, bear and other animals and birds. We get views of Mera Peak.
Day 11 Chalem Kharka to Thagnak. We follow the Hinku valley, along the river. Enjoying views of Mera Peak, villages and forest.
Day 12 We enjoy a rest day at Thagnak. We do an acclimatisation walk.
Day 13 Thagnak to Khare (5100m). We arrive at lunch time; can then walk to the glacier where we can do a training session, to ensure everyone is happy with use of ropes and crampons.
Day 14 Khare to Mera Base Camp (5300m) today we climb up to the Mera La (5400). We climb up to the Mera Glacier, which is a worthwhile objective in itself. The descent from the pass to campsite is short. We walk between the moraine and the glacier on the northern side as it descends from the col.
Day 15Acclimatisation at Mera Peak Base Camp is used as a final preparation for the climb. We do another snow and ice training session. This gives practice in the use of fixed ropes, which will be useful later, when we cross the Amphu Lapcha Pass.
Day 16Ascend to Mera High Camp (5800). We follow snow slopes, after a short distance arrive at an area of crevasses. We then head up to High camp. The views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse and Lhotse are spectacular.
Day 17 The climb to the summit of Mera starts gradually, much depends on weather conditions. The central summit appears above the wide glacier, flanked by 2 ridges. We climb the snowfields avoiding the crevasses. The route swings to the east of the left hand ridge before turning back towards the main summit ridge of Mera. Mera has 3 summits, our objective is the highest. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed, but the last 50m requires a lot of effort. After reaching the summit and enjoying the most amazing views, we then head into a campsite in the Hinku Valley.
Day 18 After breakfast, we continue through the Hinku valley, where we stop for lunch at the lake, then continue to the Hinku River, until reaching our campsite at the White Lake(5000m), near Chamlang.
Day 19 We trek into the Hinku Valley. We head up this spectacular valley, following the Hinku River. We can see the Amphu Lapcha, Lhotse and Everest.
Day 20 We head to the Amphu Lapcha Pass and camp below it, allowing for preparation to cross the pass.
Day 21 We cross the Amphu Lapcha Pass. This is the most involved and serious mountaineering day of the trip. We approach the pass over the glacier, around stunning ice flutings; the route becomes steeper with sections of about 40 degrees, heading up to the top of the ridge, where we can enjoy incredible views of Island Peak and Lhotse. The descent down the opposite side of the pass into the Imja Valleyshould not be underestimated and is the reason that only mountaineers should join this expedition. A steep descent, short abseil on snow, ice, rock and scree (condition dependent) will be safeguarded by fixed ropes. We camp by the stream, before heading to Island Peak.
Day 22 This may be a rest day or we could head onto the Peak depending on how the group feels.
Day 23 Climb up to Island Peak High Camp (5600m). The path leads beyond the camp, heads up the steep hillside. As we climb, you will see the slope narrows and the path enters a steep rock gully. We will camp just below the gully on the left.
Day 24 Island PeakAscent. We climb the rock gully, (grade 1 scrambling) but there are several short rock steps, before we emerge on the right side of the gully. We then follow the ridge line leading to the traverse onto the snout of the glacier. We need to rope up to the glacier as it contains many crevasses, but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m snow and ice slope (40-45degrees) on which the guides will fix ropes. After enjoying the summit views we descend to Chuckung.
Day 25 Trek to Tengboche (3860m) where we enjoy the Monastery.
Day 26 Trek to Namche Bazaar, where we can relax and celebrate our achievements.
Day 27 Trek to Lukla. We cross the Dudh Khose River using the high bridge, crossing several times more. We stop for lunch in Phakding, before continuing on our way to Lukla.
Day 28 Fly back to Kathmandu. Enjoy free time, or ½ day sight seeing, a complimentary evening meal.
Day 29 Free time in Kathmanduor transfer to airport for onward journey.
Day 30 Transfer to airport.
